From Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso to San Carlone, a journey through faith and wonder
Silence interrupted only by the gentle quiver of the lake’s waters, with the mountains as a backdrop and peace and quiet year round makes Lake Maggiore an ideal place for the spiritually minded. There is nothing accidental about the fact that some of Northern Italy’s best known and most attractive religious buildings are to be found here, pilgrimage sites for tourists of all ages and origins. Of these Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso, a magical place perched over the lake, is accessible by boat, too, with an especially beautiful quay. Anyone arriving from the upper Piazzale del Quiquio, on the other hand, can get there on a long flight of a grand total of 268 steps and admire one of Lake Maggiore’s most panoramic views. A convenient lift has also been carved out of the rock. With its frescoes from various eras, the hermitage is made up of three buildings: the southernmost monastic building, what is known as the ‘conventino’ and Chiesa di Santa Caterina. These are linked up by two terraced courtyards with wide bays overlooking the lake which are made even more beautiful in spring and summer by enchanting wisteria cascades. The hermitage is medieval and was built at a time in which the lake was still being criss-crossed by merchants, pilgrims and travellers of all descriptions. One of these was Alberto Besozzi, a rich and greedy trader who later ran aground in his boat at the site of what then became the hermitage. Here he called for the help of martyr saint Catherine of Alexandria, to whom he promised to mend his ways and devote himself to prayer. In gratitude for his survival he had a small chapel built on the site in honour of the saint and, when he later died and was beatified, his body was laid to rest inside the church, where it still is. Lake Maggiore’s most famous religious sites also include the statue of St Carlo on its hill, at an altitude of around 310 metres, on the road which links Arona with Dagnente. Built at the end of the 17th century this statue was the tallest in the world for nearly 200 years, at 35 metres. San Carlone, as the people of Arona call it, is also visible as you arrive in the town by boat. One of the special features of the statue is that you can go into it. A door opens up from within the folds of the saint’s clothing and a staircase takes visitors to the top. From there you can peek out at the view through the saint’s nostrils, eyes and ears or through an opening in his back.
Santuario di Re and The miracle of the bleeding Virgin Mary
A stop off at Re, in the Vigezzo valley, is a must on any spiritually themed itinerary around Lake Maggiore. It is a full-blown pilgrimage site thanks to its majestic sanctuary devoted to the Madonna del sangue, the Virgin Mary of the Blood. Her fame is due to a miracle story dating to 29 April 1494 when a boy playing a local game known as piodella threw a stone at an image of the Virgin. The following morning the painting starting bleeding and did not stop for 20 days. The cloths used to clean up the blood are on show in a glass case in the sanctuary.
By funicolar to Sacro Monte
On the Swiss side of Lake Maggiore, our tour would ideally end at Sacro Monte della Madonna del Sasso in Orselina. Built on a scenic rock spur, this can be visited on a funicular railway which leaves from Locarno. For local people it is one of the area’s most important historic and religious sites. In fact, legend has it that construction was begun by Fra Bartolomeo d’Ivrea, after the Virgin Mary appeared to him in 1480.
